ORIENT: Kathmandu

Kathmandu: A Remote Jewel Worth Discovering
by Bill Bachmann

To totally undertsand the charm and splendor of Kathmandu, a city nestled in rugged mountain ranges of the Himalayas, one must first comprehend the country of Nepal. Seven of the eight highest mountains in the world are located around Kathmandu, including Mt. Everest, which, at 29,028 feet, is the highest summit in our planet. Famous for being the birthplace of Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, Nepal is truly one of the most isolated countries in the world. It has the lowest ratio of roads to area or population of any country on earth. This, combined with the almost continuously mountainous terrain, has isolated Nepal and Kathmandu for centuries, an era of isolation that began in 1769. It has never been colonized by any nation and, therefore, it has developed a rather self-containing culture. This isolation of Kathmandu has commanded its world-wide reputation as the best place to begin trekking majestic mountains. "Sherpas" can be hired in this capital city to be guides or porters for nearby mountain-climbing expeditions. Trekking has become the main tourist attraction to bring foreign currency into Kathmandu. People from all over the world converge on Kathmandu to climb the highest mountains on earth.
But visiting Kathmandu only to climb its mountains is a mistake because this wonderful city of 235,000 people has so much more to offer. The street vendors hawk wonderful silks, carpets, fabrics, jewelry, knives, and brass and copper treasures that are as fine as anywhere in the world---and at fractions of the price in other countries.
There are no 4-star luxury hotels yet in Kathmandu, but there are three fine tourist hotels that offer clean, attractive suites. The joy of Kathmandu, however, is not in the rooms but in the streets crammed with warm, curious people. I felt absolutely safe wandering the villages and small path stores at any time of day or night, where bartering has evolved into an art form. The people love to barter and deal in the midst of exotic sights as families, traffic, cows, strange smells and sounds mix in such unusual proportions. To leave without purchasing some of their treasures, after the enjoyment of the negotiations, is not really to experience Kathmandu.
The small streets and peoples mix so pleasantly together that one wonders why all civilization does not fit so naturally. Over 90% of the workers are employed in agriculture, and so many of their goods are displayed in the streets.
Religion and family are so important to all the people of Nepal, so you learn to respect their strong value system. As the only official Hindu Kingdom in the world, their everyday life is structured around the temple and living the good life. I found that even though India is their main trade partner in this mountainous section of the world, human life seems to mean so much more to the Nepali. The overpopulation of India has created almost a total disregard for individual dignity; but this is not at all evident in Kathmandu society. The people here work very hard for long hours, and there is little evidence of the major contrast of riches and poverty of neighboring India. The Kathmandu resident does not have much in wealth, or opportunity to gather wealth (their per capita income is US$170.00) but he will not be laying in the street dying of hunger.

Nepali mother and child in peaceful Kathmandu

The opposite is more prevalent. I saw many religious men heading for the temple, and they would not even take money offered. Their vision is not of money, but seemed to be the afterlife and its rewards. Many of the people in the small villages around Nepal come to Kathmandu as they approach death. I spent time near the holy confluence of the Baymati and Visnumati Rivers at what they call the "death house."
At this stone house, older citizens come to die, so that they may be immediately cremated and their ashes thrown in the Holy River. They feel this will take them to a better place.
The holy river in Kathmandu has become the social gathering place. People come to bathe, pray, and die at the river---you will see sights unlike anywhere in the world. For the foreign traveler, the ceremonies at the river will never be forgotten. Several sunset evenings, I witnessed the sadness and sobs as loved ones were cremated on wood fires next to the river. At the Pashupatinath Temple on the Baymati River, both the living and dying share in the glory of their religion. The temples, color and sounds will be long remembered.
I was really amazed at the gentle spirit of these people as they prepared to die. I shared wonderful moments photographing a man, with hair braids down to his feet, in the days before he died. He wanted nothing but peace, and the photos I took celebrate his spirit and life more than his impending death. You will witness this gentleness in so many of the people in Kathmandu.
As the capital of Nepal, Kathmandu has some remote highways, so rare in a country of almost impossible terrain. One can travel one road to Tibet and another to India, both more influential neighbors. I traveled on one of these roads from Kathmandu for several hours to approach the base of magnificent Mt. Everest. I stopped at the small farming villages and was constantly amazed at the attitude of the local people. They were farming on almost vertical cliffs, on every arable square foot of the mountains, and they seemed to be very successful at getting good crops and having a good life---in what the rest of the world would call impossible conditions. Thick alluvial soils have nourished rice and their other crops for centuries.
Actually, all of Nepal is on mountains. Kathmandu Valley, one of three main city-kingdoms, sits at an altitude of 4400 feet, and everything around it is even higher elevation. Founded in 723, much of the life and religion of today has changed very little. Since mountains dominate the environment, resources have not been consistently developed. Farmers in and around Kathmandu still farm with oxen in layered mountain fields as they did centuries ago.
Here, I saw smiles, family unity, inner strength, and a willpower that the West would envy. They seemed so perfectly comfortable with their families, goals and conditions, even if they were isolated from vast resources of the world. School is mandatory for children ages six to ten, although many of the older people are illiterate. The children wear simple uniforms to school, and will stop shyly and converse with strangers. No organized welfare system operates anywhere in Nepal, and so many Christian missionaries have established hospitals and clinics. If you travel to Kathmandu, make sure you venture to experience the villages on the outskirts of the mountains.

Religious man with hair braids down to his feet a few days before he died

One temple not to be missed is the Soyambu Temple. On top of a steep hill, it is also known as the "Monkey Temple." Monkeys are everywhere and the drawings and traditions are most unusual. It is a large white sphere with a Buddhist dome that is very special to the Nepali people. Religious men in colorful dress surround the dome, chanting to their god. I was fascinated by the many religious traditions all over Kathmandu. As a photographer, I felt Kathmandu was one of the most unusual photographic "feasts" I have ever witnessed. From the religious men, the temples, and the beautiful women in colorful dress, my cameras were always working enthusiastically.
If you plan on visiting Kathmandu, it is most reachable by Nepal's only airline, the Royal Nepal Airline. The journey is both scary and breathtaking. On a clear day, you will see much of the Himalayan range, and Mt. Everest looms in the foreground as you glide around ragged peaks. You will be clearly "on top of the earth" as you fly into this country of three-quarter mountain ranges. Be prepared to have a flight canceled because the crew had partied the night before---that's the simple explanation!
Avoid the monsoon season of June through September, because they have rain almost daily, often lasting for days. It is seldom terribly hot in Kathmandu due to its high elevation, and you will absolutely need comfortable climbing shoes EVERYWHERE. The few hotels are average, not luxurious, and a 15-day visa is available at the airport for US$10.00, most of the time. I recommend planning ahead, and acquiring all the preventive medical shots. The Terai jungle in the south is deadly with malaria in the summer. Of course, be very careful of the water.
If you plan to use Kathmandu as a base for trekking, and it is the best in the world, a higher elevation permit should be acquired from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs well in advance. The "sherpas," hired as mountain guides, are some of the strongest people I have ever seen---I took photos of one man carrying more than what I believe humanly possible. The traveler should be in good condition also before attempting major hikes.
Despite all the isolation and effort to get to this remote part of the world, Kathmandu will always give more than what it takes. Visit the schools, enjoy the beautiful people, purchase unique handmade treasures, and explore the back streets of this fascinating city, because you will not leave as the same person you were when you arrived. And I know, your appreciation for people with such positive attitude, etching out their lives in this rugged, isolated part of the world, will definitely grow!

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