ORIENT: Rediscover Thailand

Rediscover Thailand
by Quoc Nguyen

Thailand, once the kingdom of Siam, beckons the avid traveler with a magnificent range of world-class spectacles. Virtually anything a visitor could hope for, from secluded beach resorts, bathed by tropical sunshine and clear turquoise waters, to misty mountain villages, where elephants are trained to work and gifted artisans craft exquisite traditional wares with skills handed down from generation to generation, awaits the willing adventurer. Travel in any direction and succumb to the beauty of Thailand's tropical landscapes, its grandiose gilded palaces and golden-spired temples, its gracious people, and its rich history and culture. Re-discover the awesome majesty of the Grand Palace in Bangkok, the mystical lure of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the Temple of Dawn, and other ancient shrines which have endured through the ages.
Thailand, nestled in the heart of Southeast Asia and home to about 56 million people, is bordered by Myanmar to the west, Kampuchea to the east, Laos to the north and Malaysia to the south. Bangkok, its capital and gateway city, sprawls across a flat alluvial plain on the banks of the Chao Praya River, a few miles upstream from the Gulf of Siam. Founded in 1782 by King Raman I, it is the seat of government, the residence of the royal family and the hub of virtually all industrial, commercial and financial activities. It is the country's main port and home to one-tenth of the kingdom's population. To the Thai, it is Krung Thep, the "City of Angels."
Stretching north of Bangkok are the Central Plains, an immensely fertile area at the very heart of which rests the ruins of Ayutthaya, Thailand's capital for over 400 years until 1767, when it was destroyed. Poised on the western edge of Bangkok lies Buddha Monthon, a Buddhist park that commemorates the 2500th anniversary of the religion. Still further west is the world's tallest Buddhist monument at Nakhon Pathom. Nearby is the infamous bridge over the River Kwai, built by Allied POW's during World War II.
Situated in the center of the northern region is Chiang Mai, the "Rose of the North," as it is popularly known, exuding the history of Thailand through every one of its ancient temples, monuments and festivals. The city was founded in the late 13th century and is one of the oldest settlements in Thailand, a veritable treasure trove of the arts and architecture of the region. Chiang Mai is known for having a plethora of arts and crafts, including: silverware, lacquerware, celadon pottery, silk, cotton, and handpainted paper umbrellas. The northern region is home to seven major hilltribes, each with its own distinct culture, religion, language, and manner of dress. That these cultures have remained seemingly untouched by the 20th century is both incredible and humbling. Further to the north, about three hours by car, lies the Golden Triangle, where the corners of Thailand, Burma and Laos brush.
Along the eastern and southern shores are unspoiled beaches and idyllic islands , a tropical paradise of fertile plains imbued by picturesque pastoral charm, and studded with emerald rice paddies.

A vendor of Rambutan, sugar apple and other exotic fruits in Thailand.

And then, there are the festivals. "Loy Krathong", it is often said, is the apt embodiment of all that is Thai. This is a Buddhist festival which revolves around the making of "krathongs" which are big and small floats released on the rivers and waterways of Thailand. Loy means "to float", and krathong means "a cup made of banana leaves." Each krathong carries in it a candle, incense, a lotus flower, and a few "baht" coins, the currency of Thailand. The lotus, the flower on which the Buddha sits, represents the earth. The candle is a symbol of enlightenment and truth; it also represents fire. Water and wind, the remaining primal elementals, carry the krathong away and symbolize the wisdom and compassion of the Buddha. Traditional dancers, in exquisitely embellished costumes, scurry about, preparing for their performances. Sparklers glitter and firecrackers whistle across the velvet sky against a backdrop ancient temple pillars, letting off explosions of pink, purple, red and gold light. Hot air balloons climbing the sky symbolize the "chedis," monuments which often contain the relics of the Buddha ascending to higher realms. Thousands line the river banks, women in "sarongs" or wrap-arounds and lacy blouses and men in traditional trousers, collarless shirts and sashes. Kneeling near the water, they put their krathongs to their foreheads, praying that their sins be forgiven and carried away. The krathongs are then placed on the river and let to float away. As the night wears on, the river becomes dotted with thousands of glowing floats, their flames flickering against the whimsical blackness of the water and sky.
Thailand, on the throes of becoming one of the new major economic players in Asia, is a nation delicately balancing the modern ways it vibrantly embraces and the centuries-old traditions it still strongly adheres to, a remarkable blend of the old and the new.
In the end, it is the Thai themselves that color the land. Intrinsically hospitable and cheerful people, they have an uncanny ability to blend respect for the past with a delight for the modern. Most draw strength from a quiet devotion to their religion as well as a deep respect for the monarchy. In Thailand, one sees a nation of classical wonders, a modern, dynamic, and bustling metropolis, and in her people, one sees mystery as well as tranquil openness. It is no wonder that it has so fascinated others over the ages.
Re-discover the enchantment of Thailand!

Thai women placing Krathongs into the river during a festival.

FESTIVALS OF THAILAND
July 11, Asalha Puja
The full-moon day of the eighth lunar month commemorates the Buddha's first sermon to his first five disciples after attaining Enlightenment, more than 2,530 years ago. Evening candlelit processions are staged in all Thai Buddhist temples.
July 11-12, Candle Festival
The commencement of Phansa, or the Buddhist annual three-month Rains Retreat (known in Thai as Khao Phansa), is observed in the northeastern city of Ubon Ratchathani, with this lovely festival that displays artistic skills as well as piety. Beautifully-carved beeswax candles as large as parade floats are exhibited in colorful parades before being presented to local temples.
During the Khao Phansa, July 12, the Buddhist monks customarily stay inside their monasteries to study and meditate. Phansa is the most auspicious time for Buddhist ordinations since it comprises a period of renewed spiritual vigor.
July 13, Tak Bat Dok Mai
This festival allows devotees to offer flowers and incense to a procession of monks who then ascend to the Shrine of the Holy Footprint in Saraburi where they present the offerings as tribute.
September 20, Chinese Lunar Festival
Thai of Chinese descent make offerings to the Moon, or Queen of the Heavens, in gratitude for past and future fortune. Traditional festivities include lion and dragon dances, lantern processions, and folk entertainment.
October, Lanna Boat Races
This well-known regatta is part of festivities that accompany the annual kathin season, when groups of people present robes to the monks of local temples in merit-making ceremonies. The Nan boats are distinctive, long, hollowed-out logs painted brightly and adorned with fancy designs.
October, Chon Buri Buffalo Races
The water buffalo is one of the mainstays in the life of a farmer, but this annual event allows the animal to be put to more amusing uses. Buffalo races and contests pitting man against bull aren't uncommon. Tourists from nearby seaside resorts often attend.
October 5-8, Wax Castle Festival
Northeasterners celebrate the end of the annual Buddhist Rains Retreat by constructing beeswax creations in the form of miniature Buddhist temples and shrines (wax castles) in the belief that accrued merit enables them to personally determine their future rebirth.
October 5-13, Thot Phapa Festival
Buddha images on elaborately decorated carriages are pulled by people on land as well as in water-born processions.
October 21-November 1, Vegetarian Festival
This annual festival is one of the major events of Phuket's year. Those of Chinese ancestry partake of a ten-day vegetarian diet, various parades are given, and remarkable feats by ascetic believers are performed.
November-December, Sunflower Blooming
Northern Thai hills turn golden-yellow when sunflowers bloom each year. The incredible sight is best viewed in the Mae Hong Son province's Ban Mae Ho in Amphoe Mae Sariang.
November 4-6, Loi Krathong Festival
According to tradition, Loi Krathong originated in Sukhothai, the first Thai capital, and so it is appropriate to hold a national festival there. Highlights include displays of lighted candles and fireworks, folk dancing, and a spectacular light and sound presentation.
November 18-19, Surin Elephant Round-Up
Internationally famous, this annual event brings crowd to the provincial capital of Surin, where over 100 highly-trained elephants perform. Among the amazing exhibits are wild elephant hunts, tugs of war, demonstrations of log-hauling techniques and a parade of pachiderms outfitted for medieval warfare.
November 26, Chinese Banquet for Monkeys
In the city of Lop Buri, over 500 monkeys are given a vegetarian banquet as well as mirrors and toys. The city is known for its two main temples, where the monkeys live.
December 10-11, I-san Kite Festival
Held in Buri Ram, this annual competition features various forms of traditional Thai kites and includes surrogate battles between the sexes, represented by Chula (male) and Pakpao (female) dueling kites.
For more information, contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand, 5 World Trade Center, Suite 3443, New York, New York 10048, Tel. 212-432-0433, 212-432-0435.

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